The door panel gaps look worse in photos than in the plastic and I will likely leave them alone. I should have cleaned them out before painting, but it is too late now, especially given how the paint wants to chip off and lift in chunks and sheets.
The body has now gotten two coats of clear and looks OK. (The cutout in the passenger side rocker panel is to clear the exhaust).
Bare Metal Foil application on the rest of the chrome trim was the usual tense standoff, made worse by the fact my sheet seems to have developed a network of fine cracks in spite of being stored in the stiff envelope it came in. So getting a single long piece to cover the trim on the side or (worse) over the top of the rear fender was a challenge.
The interior shot reveals a large black blob on top of the dash. Good thing the glass is not in yet!
What's left? Lights, wipers (from the parts bin), bumpers (from the resin kit), grille (from the AMT kit), and glass (cutouts from a sheet of clear plastic). Close up, it's all a bit sloppy, but it will look fine in a display case.
So the overall analysis? Two conclusions. First, resin is trickier than styrene (but we all knew this). This one had its challenges around fit, but was not too bad for an advanced modeler with some patience and a willingness to carve things up. (The hood still doesn't fit). I have never finished a Jimmy Flintstone body, but I suspect this one was easier, reflecting the higher price. Second, cleanup is critical (again we all know this). The right kind and the right amount of cleanup remains to be established. I'll post separately as I uncover more.
And what about 3D printing? This is coming, as I've said before. I've ordered some bits from Ron Olsen (here) and will report on the whole experience once I get my order. It will be interesting to contrast with resin. If I were casting bits for the aftermarket, I think I'd be worried. Stay tuned!
No comments:
Post a Comment