Saturday, January 31, 2015

DBR1: one step forward, three steps back

So the body work to date has involved the following steps:
  1. Sunday: wash major body components in warm water and lots of dish soap;
  2. Apply Tamiya primer;
  3. Wet sand with 1000 and 2000 grit Tamiya paper to get rid of the lumpy stuff in the middle of the hood and elsewhere;
  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 (twice);
  5. Monday: get fed up with ongoing lumpy stuff bubbling up under the primer;
  6. Tuesday: drive to hardware store and pick up paint thinner;
  7. Wearing hospital nitrile gloves, soak body in paint thinner, scrubbing with a nail brush;
  8. Replace hospital nitrile gloves regularly in the course of Step 7 as they don't seem to stand up to paint thinner for very long;
  9. Wash repeatedly in warm water and lots of dish soap;
  10. Although Step 9 yielded plenty of brown goobers (a.k.a. suspected mold release agents) in the residual thinner, I decided to rinse and scrub in alcohol anyway, leading directly to Step 11, which is:
  11. Wednesday: drive to pharmacy and pick up more isopropyl alcohol and acetone (what the hey, I was in the shop anyway). Also pick up a couple of toothbrushes.
  12. Thursday: out of town on business so no progress;
  13. Friday: Final cleanup with paint thinner, scrubbing with a toothbrush;
  14. Soak in soapy water, then alcohol, scrubbing with a toothbrush;
  15. Hospital nitrile gloves don't seem to mind immersion in rubbing alcohol, which is probably a good thing if you think about it;
  16. Wash repeatedly in warm water and lots of dish soap;
  17. Saturday: drive to national auto parts chain store and buy a can of Dupli-Color Sandable Primer; this seemed the least aggressive of the three available choices, the others being Primer Sealer and Filler Primer;
  18. Apply Dupli-Color primer to one of the Jimmy Flintstone bodies in case it tends to turn expensive resin bodies into a formless glob - it worked fine except where I didn't remove all the mold release agent :-) 
  19. Apply primer to DBR1 body components;
  20. Breathe, it all seems to be working. Go back to wet sanding.
Is it better? Yes, definitely. Is it perfect? No, there are still a couple of bubbles. This just reinforces how important it is to deal with mold release agents.

To be fair, the quality of the mold, now that it has a decent coat of primer on it, is much better than the various Jimmy Flintstone bodies, perhaps not surprising given the price differential. And perhaps the Jimmy Flintstone bodies need the Filler Primer which apparently fills in large nicks and scratches.

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